…Hello.
This is Tohoku Itako.
Last week, Zunko and I went to Mt. Kurikoma.
To see the autumn leaves. That was our only goal.
⛰️ About Mt. Kurikoma
Mt. Kurikoma has an elevation of 1,626 meters.
It straddles three prefectures: Miyagi, Iwate, and Akita.
In autumn, the entire mountainside is dyed in red, yellow, and orange, which is why it came to be called the “Carpet of the Gods.”
It’s sometimes praised as one of Japan’s most spectacular autumn foliage spots.
…When you hear a name like that beforehand, you tend to brace yourself a little.
Wondering if it might be an exaggeration.
When I actually stood there, I realized.
It was not an exaggeration.
🌄 We Left While It Was Still Dark
We set out while the sky was still indigo.
There were three reasons.
- Because the parking lot and the roads get crowded around noon.
- Because mountain weather is more likely to turn bad in the afternoon.
- Because the autumn leaves are most beautiful in the slanted morning light.
As soon as she got in the car, Zunko said, “I’m still sleepy.”
…But she’s the type who comes anyway. That’s one of my little sister’s strengths.
The trailhead on the Miyagi side is at Iwakagami-daira.
This is at the seventh station, and the parking lot goes right up to it.
The moment we got out of the car and looked up.
Zunko: “…Wow.”
Itako: “…”
I couldn’t say a thing.
Red. Orange. Yellow. And deep green remaining in places.
It all continued unbroken across the entire mountain slope.
The person who chose the word “carpet” was right.
For a while, we both just stood there in silence.
…I think we wake up early for moments like this.
🍁 The Peak Colors Descend from the Summit
The autumn leaves of Mt. Kurikoma have an order.
- Near the summit … Usually late September to early October
- Around Iwakagami-daira … Usually early to mid-October
- At the foot of the mountain … Usually mid to late October
The colors start at the top and gradually descend to the base.
When we went last week, it was just when the colors near the summit were past their peak, and the mid-slopes were at their best.
Looking up, we saw trees that had begun to shed their leaves.
Looking down, we saw the deepest reds of the season.
…Within the same mountain, two seasons existed side by side.
So the answer to “is it too late?” or “is it too early?” changes depending on the altitude.
I recommend checking the color status for the year before you go and deciding on your target altitude.
👣 A Short Walk on the Central Course
From Iwakagami-daira, the Central Course is the most popular trail.
It takes about an hour and a half one-way to the summit.
We walked slowly together along the path, where the morning mist still lingered.
The fallen leaves made a dry sound under our feet.
Every time the wind blew through, another leaf or two would fall.
Zunko: “Itako-neesan, aren’t you cold?”
Itako: “…I’m fine. I brought gloves.”
Zunko: “Of course you did.”
If you choose your clothes based on how it feels at sea level, you’ll definitely regret it on the mountain.
In windy spots, the wind chill makes it feel much colder.
- A jacket you can layer with
- Gloves and a hat that can cover your ears
- Well-worn shoes
- A warm drink
…And the most important thing.
Decide on a turnaround time in advance.
It’s more important to get back while it’s still light than it is to reach the summit.
We also turned back partway on this day.
…Because we were already perfectly content.
🚗 How to Get There
Mt. Kurikoma gets very crowded during the autumn foliage season.
Because of this, there are usually days when private cars are restricted and shuttle buses are in operation.
The dates for these restrictions and the bus schedules change from year to year.
…Rather than copying it here, please check the latest information for the year before you go.
That’s the most reliable way.
🍂 Why Do Leaves Change Color?
As we were walking, Zunko asked me.
Zunko: “Why do the leaves change color in the first place?”
Itako: “…Because the leaves are closing up shop.”
As winter approaches, trees stop sending nutrients to their leaves.
The green pigment breaks down, and the yellow that was always in the leaves becomes visible.
Red leaves, it’s said, are created when new red pigments are made from the remaining sugars.
In other words, the changing leaves don’t mean the tree is dying, but that it’s preparing to survive the winter.
They also say that the greater the temperature difference between day and night, the deeper the colors become.
…The idea that the preparations for a farewell are the most beautiful.
It’s a little like people.
🍡 The Story of the One Who Stayed Home
Originally, the three of us were supposed to go.
The night before, Zundamon kept saying, “I’ll definitely wake up, nanoda!”
He didn’t wake up.
When we got back, he was waiting for us at the entrance.
Zundamon: “What about souvenirs!? Are there souvenirs, nanoda!?”
Itako: “…There are no souvenirs for kids who don’t wake up.”
Zundamon: “…No way…”
Zunko: “Here, this is for you.”
Zundamon: “Zunko-sama!!”
…My sister is too soft.
But what she gave him wasn’t food, but a single, bright red leaf she had picked up.
Zundamon was quiet for a moment, then carefully pressed it between the pages of a book.
…He’s a kid who gets it.
Next year, I suppose we’ll wake him up.
🍁 Summary
- Mt. Kurikoma is a 1,626-meter-high mountain straddling Miyagi, Iwate, and Akita.
- In autumn, the mountainside is called the “Carpet of the Gods.” …It was not an exaggeration.
- The peak viewing season starts near the summit and descends to Iwakagami-daira and then the mountain’s base.
- Private cars may be restricted during the foliage season. Be sure to check the latest information for the schedule.
- Dress warmly, leave early, and decide on your turnaround time in advance.
You can read about me on the Tohoku Itako page, and about the sister who climbed with me on the Tohoku Zunko page.
…The mountain isn’t going anywhere.
But that year’s colors are only there for that week.
Go while you can.
…Well then.
This was Tohoku Itako.